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Tips Before You Visit Myanmar
General: This is the most interesting
(according to me) place to visit. Burma has a unique and sophisticated
culture that has been relatively isolated from outside influences. The
only disadvantage in visiting Burma is naturally linked to the same isolation:
lack of tourist infrastructure makes it less comfortable to get around. You can't get a fruit
smoothie in every little town. I
don't think there's a single butterfly farm in the whole country. It's
not progress, but my the $10 hotel room where I stayed last year in Rangoon
had CNBC via satellite TV.
Highlights:
For over one thousand years Burma's
kingdoms have built their capitals in the central plains around
Mandalay. The wealth of historical architecture is incredible and most
sites still function as temples, rather than archeology museums or tourist
attractions.
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Off the beaten Track:
There are still parts of
the country where foreign visitors are extremely rare. The downside of
visiting these places is that 1) it's extremely difficult to get there, 2)
there's no guesthouse so you have to ask if you can sleep on the floor of the
local monastery, 3) every kid and most of the adults will stop whatever they
are doing and follow you around just to see whatever you are doing, 4) the local
police may watch you (of course everybody else will be watching you too so you
wont know who the police are).
Currency Regulations:
People spend a lot of
time talking about this, but in the end it's very simple: on arrival in Burma
tourists are required to exchange 200US$ for 200 Foreign Exchange Certificates
(FEC) issued by the Burmese government. FEC can be used to pay hotel
bills, plane fares, etc... so you probably end up using a fair amount
(depending on your budget). In addition, FEC can easily be exchanged for
Burmese kyat which are used locally. The kyat exchange rate for US$ and
FEC varied by about 1% until the past year when FEC have fallen to about a 20%
discount to dollars. While FEC can legally be exchanged for kyat, it is
illegal to directly exchange dollars for kyat. This exchange used to be
very open and reliable, but within the past year the government arrested some
large dealers and exchange became more uncertain. Frankly it's just a
big annoyance. Undercover police monitor the remaining black market, but
their main concern is preventing local Burmese from buying dollars to take out
of the economy and out of the country. The police don't bother ordinary
tourists because tourists are bringing money into the country.
Politics:
Some people claim that tourists
should not visit Burma because these help support the military
government. I have spent a lot of time thinking about this issue and my
personal conclusions are:
- Tourism does not provide meaningful financial support to
the government. Revenues from exports of natural resources (natural
gas, timber, and gems) are sufficient to keep the government in
power. The importance of these sectors to the government is
confirmed by the heavy regulation and government control over resource exports.
- Informed visitors promote awareness and contribute to
change. Unfortunately too few people, even in positions of
influence, have direct knowledge of what Burma is like. Most Burmese are proud of their people and culture, but
dislike their
government. Visitors will find that many Burmese are eager to share
their feelings about these things, although it's best to let a Burmese raise the
subject so that you can be confident you are in a safe place for
discussing political matters.
- Perspective. Burma's military government bears
similarities to the military juntas that once ruled most of America's
Asian allies. In nearly every case an evolutionary process has
created more free and open societies. The countries that have been
most isolated have seen the least change (Burma, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia,
and North Korea).
- Isolation and boycotts haven't worked. During a
visit you will see no evidence of any impact from boycotts and sanctions.
Burma has been subject to isolation (for internal and external reasons)
since the military seized power in 1962. Isolation has not been a
means to progress.
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